The injector tube which is located between the water inlet valve and the tub cover is the likely source of the leak if the leaking is noticed while the water is filling.
Also look around the pump after removing the front panel. 2 phillips screws hold the panel on at the bottom, then pull the panel away from the machine and let it swing upward at the same time until the upper hinge parts allow the panel to fall off.
If you look towards the top of the transmission at the centre underside of the outer tub and the leaking is from that area it can be rusting at the outer tub or it needs a tub seal replacement.
Look for leaking around the water inlet valve, check around the pump and look closely at drain hose connections and the drain hose itself.
The lid switch may not be allowing power to the motor. The switch can be checked for continuity.
If the motor is running but there is no spinning or agitating the drive belt can be checked by leaning the washer against the wall to tip it back, looking underneath with something supporting the washer (2 paint cans would work) you can take the belt or belts off to inspect. Some older models have 2 belts, the second one being to power the drain pump.
Less often but it does happen, a small piece of clothing can work it’s way into the area between the spin basket and the outer tub making it difficult or impossible for the spin basket to turn. The tub cover must be removed and sometimes the spin tub in order to remove the clothing.
Not spinning very well
If the belt is damaged or cracking or looking shiny along the edges where it grips to the pulleys then the drive belt needs to be replaced.
If oil has leaked onto the belt from the transmission the pully’s can be cleaned and belt replaced to buy more time, but the machine should likely need to be replaced soon.
Check for clothing stuck in the pump, at the outer tub hose which leads to the pump, and in the drain hose itself.
The drain pump bely may be broken, and the lid switch may also be at fault.
The two main top load designs made by Whirlpool under the Maytag are the direct drive and the magnetic stator drive system.
Since there is no transmission in the stator drive system and no clutch or brake assembly there are fewer parts that can break down. It does not mean though that there will be less maintenance issues when adding the risks associated with costly electronic components. They do offer high energy efficiency ratings and bigger load capacity. Less cleaning power with the spinning disc design can have the benefit of longer life of the garments which take less of a pounding on each wash.
With the belt drive sytem which Whirlpool refers to as the “splutch” model he common repairs are with the plastic motor pulley, the shifter, the drive pulley and the thrust bearing. These repairs are easily done with a few basic hand tools.
Frontload Maytag washers really have very little that distinguishes them from other brands of front load units. There-fore the material disclosed on the “Washer Repair” page covering front load washers should be referred to which also applies to the Maytag units.
The Maytag and Whirlpool washer options are still a very good choice in spite of some various service issues that can come up.
We recommend being careful when selecting Maytag. If it looks very much like the same unit as the Whirlpool, sometimes they are basically the same unit mechanically. The difference may only be the higher price with the Maytag name.
In terms of lower maintenance cost issues and longer term use a better purchase generally would be the tried and true top load washer with the full agitator and no electronics.
The main exception to this is in cities where water cost savings can be substantial with the frontload washers. The savings are only really gained though in homes with 3 to 5 people where a lot of laundry is being done, otherwise the water savings will not likely exceed the initial increased purchase price and the average higher cost maintenance and repairs.
For many years the Maytag has been the main design with 2 drum rollers at the front of the drum and 2 drum rollers at the back of the drum. This has been an excellent design with the only real weakness being found in the low grade plastic on the blower wheel.
When the d shape shaft blower wheel becomes rounded or cracked it slips on the shaft of the motor creating slow air flow and short cycling on the element from the slow moving air becoming overheated. Replacing the blower wheel is a quick and easy job to solve.
Some added safety features with newer models mean tendency to greater maintenance costs as thermal fuses and safety thermostats may force customers to seek service when the dryer is overheating for various reasons.
I hope this information has been of help for our visitors, but if you still need some help please call 250-800-0900 for service, or email us at firstname.lastname@example.org to request more information or set up an appointment.