CAUTION! Always make sure there is no power to the appliance you are working on unless you have otherwise been trained specifically in safety procedures on that unit.
This page is designed to help find the problem. In most cases once you have found the problem you can then find detailed steps in the repair of that problem by going to www.youtube.ca.
If for example you enter in the search option “replacing Whirlpool range hidden bake element” and check a few videos to find your similar model, you will likely find a step by step walk through tutorial.
Common stove problems:
- Oven not heating
- Oven temperature troubles
- Surface element not working
- Surface element overheats
- Bake element or broil not working
Oven not heating
Take an ohms reading at the element terminals. Should be around 10 ohms. You can also inspect the element closely you may see a break in the element or cracking.
Newer ranges with electronic controls also have an oven sensor which is wired up to the control and senses the temperature in the oven. The ohms reading on the sensor should be around 1000 ohms.
If you have power to the electronic oven control (EOC) and the sensor and the elements are okay then the control likely needs to be replaced. Be aware that some models also have a safety thermostat which will prevent power to the element if the range is overheating. Check for continuity through the thermostat and replace if the circuit is not closed.
Oven temperature problems
Sometimes when the bake element is not working power will still go to the broil element to help with the pre-heat. This will give the impression that the bake element is working when actually the bake element is not working at all.
On most older ranges if the temperature is off by a small amount an adjustment of up to 25 degrees F they can often be corrected by adjusting the screw position which is located down the centre of the control shaft. On other models like the GE range the mounting position can be changed by removing the knob and adjusting the control position on the floating plate.
Some models with electronic controls can also be adjusted, you may find help with your model by locating the technical data sheet.
Surface element not working:
If you have a meter check the ohms reading at the element (should be around 15 ohms). If you have no meter you could exchange position to a location that you know is working and see if the element works there.
If the element is good it may be the terminal block that the element plugs into that is faulty. Check the terminal ends of the element to see if there is darkness and or pitting on the tips of the terminals. If there is damage there then both the element and the terminal block should be replaced
If you find that both the element and the terminal blocks are good then chances are the surface element switch is no good. With the power off you can remove the terminal block wires from the switch. With the switch off there will be no continuity between the power supply terminals and the element terminals. If turning the switch on you find there is still no continuity this proves that the switch is faulty.
Surface element overheats:
If your surface element is overheating it is almost always the surface element switch that causes this to happen.
Bake or broil not working
Take an ohms reading then replace the part if needed.
If the element tests okay see if your model has a safety thermostat preventing power to the element. No continuity reading (circuit is not closed) means thermostat is faulty.
The EOC should be replaced if the elements are good and there is power to the EOC but power is not passing through to the elements.
I hope this information has been of help for our visitors, but if you still need some help please call 250-800-0900 for service, or email us at email@example.com to request more information or set up an appointment.