WASHING MACHINE NOT DRAINING
Obstruction in the pump or the drain hose. Clamp the hoses or drain water by lowering the drain hose when possible. Sometimes a wet vac can come in handy with the water removal. Then remove the blockage
If there is power to the pump (usually 110 volts) and the pump is still not draining after confirming there is no blockages, or item stuck in the impeller then the pump should be replaced.
On models that have a belt powering the pump the belt itself should be checked, if broken, cracked or slipping on the pump while the pump pulley is easy to turn means the belt should be replaced.
If you have determined there is no power to the pump during the point in the cycle where the power is supposed to be there then you likely need a service man to come out and diagnose the cause primarily because expensive electronic parts can not be returned for a refund once installed.
WASHER NOT SPINNING
One of the most common causes for washer not spinning is actually due to the water not draining. If the water has drained and it is still not spinning it may be one of the following:
Faulty lid switch assembly. Test and or replace the switch.
If the motor is shot then the unit will not agitate or spin, and you will usually hear a humming sound like it is trying to run and then often times a click sound or smoking smell when when it shuts down.
It is somewhat rare but if the water pressure switch is faulty failing to signal the water level is down enough to begin sending power to the motor this can cause no spin.
On Whirlpool washers (less than 20 years old) the power transfers from the motor to the transmission without a belt. The connection between the two is called a coupler. The broken coupler on these direct drive models is the most common cause of not spinning along with the faulty lid switch. Either repair is usually done at a modest cost as long as the transmission is okay and not showing signs of leaking oil.
On mostly older models but also some newer models a broken belt can also cause not spinning.
Check to see if the pump is leaking. Look closely for a crack or evidence of water residue from the place where the motor shaft goes into the pump on most models made by Whirlpool.
Check the fill hoses and the drain hose for evidence of leaking.
Sometimes a water inlet valve can be cracked, and leaking. Also on occasion a water valve will be stuck on open which will allow the water to keep filling even when the power is off to the machine. When this happens turn off the taps and replace the inlet valve.
When a standpipe is partially blocked or the drain system further down is starting to clog the water will overflow on the standpipe making it easy to conclude that the washer is leaking.
It if it only happens occasionally it can make it hard to catch. Attaching paper towel at the top of the standpipe may provide the evidence you need if you return and find the soggy or wrinkled paper towel.
When this happens a professional in sewer and drain cleanout services should be contacted before worse things happen with sewage backup.
On frontload washers leaking can be caused by water backing up in the soap dispenser. Solution is to remove the soap dispenser by pressing on the release tab, take it apart and clean everything. Reassemble and reinstall and test machine.
Also on the frontload washer leaking the front door seal (known as a door bellows or boot) is often the source of leaking found at the front door. This type of repair should usually be taken care of by an experienced service technician.
Also refer to the basics of washer leaking for top load washers above for service pointers that also apply to front load units.
WASHER NOT SPINNING
When a frontload washing machine is not spinning and the washer does tumble then it may be the motor control board sometimes referred to as the motor speed board. But keep in mind there are no refunds on electrical parts once installed.
Check for a broken belt by removing the back panel if the motor seems to be running but there is no spin.
WASHER NO HIGH-SPEED SPIN
If the washer only spins slowly during spin cycle another cause is can be the door latch assembly. Disconnecting the door bellows can be challenging without the right tools or procedure to reinstall the spring-loaded retainer wire.\
WASHER NOT DRAINING
Some models of frontload washers have a small access panel door at the front bottom which will give access to the debris filter. To remove the filter turn it ant-clockwise with large pliers or vice grips if needed. Any water still in the machine will come pouring out. Inspect the area inside close to the pump impeller and remove anything that may be stopping the impeller from turning.
Other models may allow access to the pump or filter by removing the lower panel at the front. If the pump is still not draining after making sure there is no drain hose blockage or impeller blockage and you verify there is power to the pump the pump is verified then as faulty is and needs to be replaced.
The rear bearing is the most common problem when the washer is noisy in spin. Often caused or worsened by water wicking into the rear tub seals and damaging the bearing. To inspect the remove the rear panel and look behind the pulley at the center of the rear tub shell. This is a very expensive repair if done properly and in most cases the machine should be replaced.
Washing machine problems can be very challenging to diagnose. Parts replacement is also more challenging when dealing with water still in the machine and concerns about water damage to the home if not done with caution.
Helping by bailing most of the water from the machine prior to service man’s arrival will help reduce the labor cost.
I hope this information has been of help for our visitors, but if you still need some help please call 250-800-0900 for service, or email us at email@example.com to request more information or set up an appointment.